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Star reporter Anna Spoerre ordered the chirbuli at Clay & Fire the first time she found herself at the homey spot in Kansas City’s West Side — and it’s the meal she’s ordered ever since. The dish, from the country of Georgia, near Turkey, is a stew of sorts, made of onion, garlic, tomato, walnut, coriander, butter and basil, and topped with poached eggs. It tastes like a little bowl of comfort, made to be eaten next to a fire with a book, or on a crisp fall day, all cozy in a warm jacket. But as summer approaches, Anna has realized it’s perfect year-round. On a recent May day, the chef, Brent Gunnels, said the dish is the genesis of huevos rancheros, after Georgian immigrants brought chirbuli to Mexico in the 19th century. As the tomatoes cooked down, Gunnels hand-mashed garlic and walnuts in a mortar and pestle, then added everything to a cast iron bowl that he pushed into the 1,000-degree wood-fire oven, where the flavors could marinate for a few minutes. The rich, salty, tangy m...

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