The line at the front of the restaurant started forming around 4:30 p.m. on a recent Thursday, with six people arriving together. A couple followed, and by 4:50 p.m., 16 people were already waiting to enter Simon’s Restaurant, the Merle Hay neighborhood Italian eatery that just hit the 20-year mark. Inside, the staff hustled to finish setting up the restaurant for the night. A bartender filled water glasses and moved them to tables. Another employee vacuumed. And owner Simon Goheen polished one last glass-covered tabletop, adjusting the silverware and menu already awaiting the first customers. Small details — from the waiting lounge to Goheen touching tables in the dining room to the slice of red velvet cake that comes with every meal — helped earn Simon’s a semifinalist nod from the beardfoundation for Outstanding Hospitality. Tap the link in our bio for more on this story. #DesMoines #Iowa #DesMoinesFoodie #DesMoinesEats #JamesBeard