After we left Reykjavík, we sailed on the Saturn to Ísafjörður & I did multiple tours from port. The 2nd, after my boat tour to Vigur, included a visit to the Ósvör Maritime Museum near Bolungarvík. There, the curator of the museum greeted us in a traditional outfit, skinnklæði, a waxed sheep-skin suit once worn by Icelandic fishermen at sea. He made quite an impression on our group; and explained how in the wintertime or “low season” on the farms, people would go to the fishing stations by the sea for several weeks to live and to fish from open rowing boats like the six-oared boat, Ölver, which is part of the museum today. The black structures with turf roofs are a fisherman’s home, a salting house, and a drying hut. It was cold even in August and I struggled to imagine living there in winter. It made me grateful for a furnace at home that I can turn on whenever I want. But a low temperature was a good thing at another stop where we drank icey cold, clear water straight from the sid...