Denver now has two Michelin-starred Mexican eateries: chef Johnny Curiel’s Alma Fonda Fina and Mezcaleria Alma. Alongside other newer additions to the scene, like Uptown’s Xiquita and La Diabla in the Ballpark neighborhood, these restaurants pay homage to the cooking techniques and ingredients so central to traditional Mexican cuisine. But there’s one dish you won’t find on the menu at any of those spots: green chile. At least, not the version that’s become a staple at most Mexican restaurants in Denver — the gravy-like, often orange-hued, pork-studded substance that’s typically used as a sauce to smother burritos, fries and tortilla-wrapped burgers, aka Mexican hamburgers, which are one of the hallmarks of Den-Mex cuisine. Still, some people will say you can only get good green chile in New Mexico, land of the famous Hatch chiles, where the green tends to be thin and fiery. Others are loyal to Pueblo, where homegrown chiles are used for a gravy-like green that tops that city’s inf...