#Repost mikedoyleca with get_repost ・・・ Last Wednesday I went up 'The East Face' (13d on Monkey Face) just working the moves and figuring out the gear placements. It was raining and conditions were horrible. When I got to the top I set up a top rope for a friend trying the arete. Since it was raining I bailed on cleaning all the gear off the crack and just lowered. I didn't think I knew the beta well enough to send. Unfortunately I did send but with pre-placed gear. So to set an additional challenge I thought I might as well do it skipping the bolts at the top. It's an old aid line and when Alan Watts did the FFA (at the time the hardest route in North America) he just replaced tiny rivets with proper bolts. The climbing isn't difficult up there (5.11?) but there isn't much gear. It's been done only on gear already, by a few people. Here's a photo of me trying to sort out what meager gear I can use when skipping the bolts. I actually fell just below where this photo was taken, blew the...