Several locals made my latest trip to Iceland give the first a serious run for its money. I did worry, before leaving, about spending all our time only in Reykjavík. The last time I was there the city was fine but it wasn’t the star of the show. The pounding of waterfalls, sheer height of the bluffs, the crystalline quality of glacier ice on a black sand beach, the wild horses and the stillness of an inland lake at 4 am… everything outside the city, captured my attention deeply. A country is so much more than just a city. But Iceland is where the script often gets flipped and people, like I was during that first visit, only know the landscapes. Not the myriad of details of people and place beyond the postcard moments. Oh but Reykjavík has changed! Now, the younger people who might have once left to work are coming back to restore and preserve historic buildings, open businesses, helm new restaurants, debut perfumes scented with the seasons of their culture… gift the city with a vibe t...