Inis Mór (Inishmore) is the largest of the Aran Islands, off the West coast of the Republic of Ireland not too far from Galway. Early on in my recent hosted visit, I found myself at this building and one just like it next door (that was painted in shades of Grecian blue and more bright white) at the start of a walk to a prehistoric fort perched 100 meters over waves shooting so high up the cliffs they looked like the arms of giants coming to grab unsuspecting tourists. Before and after that, I saw much of the island from the window of a van on an organized tour and while I would choose to go by foot or bicycle if I ever returned, I still truly enjoyed every minute of being on Inis Mór. I knew Aran mostly as home of the Aran Sweater which I’ve seen people wearing all my life. And I think that’s incredible given that before the 1970s you had to get to and from the island in essentially a row boat. That’s when electricity, pipes for water, tourism and ferries finally did come to Inis Mór....