The UNESCO city of Valparaíso has been ravaged by earthquakes and economic downturns since its heyday, in the second half of the 19th century, when it was one of the most important ports in the world for ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, pre-Panama Canal. So it's not always easy to see why it might have been so great, the historic elements aren't as obvious as in other cities around the world. And though what's left is being preserved it's slower going than it might be elsewhere. BUT I think that's why I fell in love with it during our walking tour with @upscapetravel. It doesn't kick you in the face as being amazing immediately, it's like a slow unwrapping, it's a kind of onion. Between all the public art, the warm and creative people, the fascinating differences in culture from neighborhood to neighborhood and the way in which you can almost always see the ocean everywhere you go -- it's a place that seduced me hour by hour, making me want to return, for longer...