Appa can’t stand the illegally parked white Honda outside his corner store, Kim’s Convenience. This is a running thread throughout Ins Choi’s “Kim’s Convenience,” the play and not the store within the play, now on at American Conservatory Theater’s Toni Rembe Theater through Oct. 19. This white Honda is the recipient of Appa’s unrelenting ire, yet the person who hears about it the most is not the driver, but Appa’s daughter, Janet (Kelly Seo). This is par for the course, as Janet hears about more of Appa’s complaints than anybody who actually provokes him, but don’t let that fool you into thinking he won’t chew out whoever he sees fit for a chewing. So goes the complicated push and pull at the center of Choi’s uproarious and touching play. A figure familiar to anyone with a family, Appa’s bristly affection and warm jabs drive “Kim’s Convenience” at its funniest and most bittersweet moments alike. Choi, who also plays Appa, infuses his play with tangible pathos in his writing and perf...