On the afternoon of March 17, 2020, then Gov. Kate Brown ordered all Oregon restaurants and bars to close their dining rooms, limiting food sales to takeout only. It was expected to last two weeks. A month at the most. Exactly three years later, Portland’s dining scene has changed forever. Many of the city’s signature restaurants — Paley’s Place, Pok Pok, Toro Bravo — have closed permanently, their chefs relocated to other cities, states or countries. That doesn’t mean it’s all doom and gloom. As we wrote in our guide to Portland’s best new restaurants of 2022, many of the city’s empty storefronts, even prominent ones, have been filled by “former food carts and itinerant pop-ups, small businesses happy to accept friendly terms on a previously unattainable address.” And some of the most surprising closures turned out to be temporary. Abyssinian Kitchen and Akadi, our finest East and West African restaurants, respectively, reopened in new locations. Ava Gene’s, the hyper-seasonal Ital...