On weekends, Shimokitazawa feels less like a Tokyo neighborhood than a village in a 1960s art-house film. Young Japanese sport green hair, guitar cases and bags stuffed with secondhand clothes. The aroma of drip coffee wafts along lanes, and handwritten signs point the way to basement music venues known as live houses.
Tokyo’s hub for used clothing, indie music and counterculture, Shimokitazawa has spent the past decade reinventing itself, which has raised the specter of gentrification. Yet its bohemian soul -- scruffy, creative and defiant -- remains largely intact, making it an ideal place to experience a less buttoned-down Tokyo.
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