12,345 ft. That’s the altitude of Phulara Ridge. The number called out to me. I knew I had to do this. Given how broken everything in the country feels right now, getting to walk up a mountain for a week is a shitload of privilege. I knew that going in. Everyone on a high-altitude trek has a reason for being there. For Hansal and me, it’s become our yearly thing. We go every year, and every year it feels like a homecoming. What still surprises me is that after all this time together, the mountains keep showing us new sides of each other. Up there you can’t pretend. This climb took me to the edge of what I had. There was a moment when I was certain there was nothing left in me. Then there was a little more still left. And this time, I fell flat on my face only once lol. That’s progress. And it was entirely my fault. The mules were just going about their day. I also came back with a nose that is completely baked. Coming to the heart of it all: the people. The guides and locals who ta...